Driving into paradise
Sardinia might have a reputation as a millionaire’s playground, with its dazzling blue waters and dramatic landscapes, but here’s the twist: you don’t need a yacht to live the good life. A camper van and a sense of adventure will do just fine. And at a fraction of the cost.
During my time exploring Sardinia, I discovered that this Mediterranean gem isn’t just about fancy resorts - it’s a van lifer’s paradise, filled with breathtaking views, postcard-perfect villages, and beaches so pristine you’ll feel guilty walking on them.
Whether you’re a seasoned road tripper or a camper van newbie still mastering the art of squeezing into tight parking spots (like I was!), Sardinia is sure to impress you with its outstanding natural beauty and laid-back vibe.
Here’s my guide to why Sardinia should be your next road trip destination, along with an itinerary that covers the island’s best spots, offering a mix of freedom, fun, and occasional “Can we fit down that road?” moments.
Summary Itinerary
- Day 1 - Arrival
- Day 2-4: Torre di Bari
- Day 5: Arbatax
- Day 6-8: Cagliari
- Day 9-10: Solanas
- Day 11-13: Bosa
- Day 14: Depature
So why Sardinia?
I think of Sardinia as a jewel in the Mediterranean. It has a little bit of everything and what it has, it does well.
Craving a secret beach where the water is unbelievably clear? Sardinia has it. Fancy a strenuous hike that rewards you with breathtaking scenery? You’ll find that too. There's also plenty of ancient ruins for history buffs to explore.
And what sets Sardinia further apart from other Med hot spots is its relaxed vibe. It's how I imagined Greece or Italy would be before mass tourism took over. Sure there's some touristy areas, and summer can get crowded. But if you venture away from these spots you'll discover untouched beaches stretching for miles and serene villages that have stood still in time.
This is why road-tripping Sardinia is a must! Especially with a camper van or motorhome, you can explore it all at your own pace. The island invites you to adventure, eat, and relax (in that order), all while soaking up its laid-back vibes.
My itinerary provides all of this in a two-week plan showcasing the best of the island for you and your tiny home on wheels.
Getting There and Away with a Camper Van
Thankfully, getting to Sardinia with your van is straightforward - ferries from Spain (Barcelona) or mainland Italy (Genoa, Livorno, or Civitavecchia) will take you to one of the island's three ports.
For more info, check out my complete guide on getting your campervan on and off the island by ferry 👇
Georgina
I began my journey from Livorno and arrived into Golfo d'Aranci in the northeastern part of the island. This itinerary starts in that area (or from the nearby port of Olbia) and follows an almost circular route around the island. Of course, you can start in Porto Torres in the northwestern part and follow the same route in reverse.
Finding Park-Ups
While 'wild camping' is not permitted in Sardinia, sleeping in your motorhome overnight is generally tolerated - unless there are signs prohibiting it. Just remember not to exhibit any signs of camping, such as putting out your awning, tables, or chairs! Always take your trash with you and respect the area. I followed this approach and didn't have any issues while boondocking in Sardinia.
I relied on the Park4Night app to find the best free and budget-friendly park-ups. The app also lists official campsites as well as free or paid motorhome areas if you're looking for extra convenience.
If you’re travelling during the off-season, many campsites accept the ASCI card for discounted pitch rates.
I’ve covered parking spots and other tips in the itinerary, so let’s get started!
Days 1-4: Welcome to Sardinia – Your Adventure Begins
Start your Sardinian adventure at your arrival ferry port. Okay, I know you’re eager to hit the beach, as I was when I first arrived! But hear me out. Before you set off to your first destination, take the opportunity to stock up on provisions. Outside of the larger urban areas, supermarkets (bigger ones with more choices) can be scarce. The main chain is Conad, and the larger stores are very well-stocked, so be sure to grab everything you need, especially if you have specific dietary requirements.
Stock-Up Opportunity
If you arrive by ferry at Golfo d'Aranci or Olbia, the Centro Commerciale Terranova is a fantastic first stop. This shopping complex features outlet stores, cafes, and a large Conad supermarket. There’s also a laundromat, allowing you to take care of laundry while you shop. From here, it’s about a three-hour drive to your first stop: the breathtaking Torre di Bari.
Torre di Bari – An Idyllic Beach Scene
Located on Sardinia’s eastern coast, this picturesque village is renowned for its stunning turquoise waters and pristine Blue Flag beaches. Dominating the landscape is the 16th-century watchtower, perched dramatically on a rocky peninsula with panoramic views of the coastline and shimmering Mediterranean Sea.
After an exhausting 2-day, 1,200km journey driving from Germany, to Italy and onwards to Livorno for the overnight ferry to Sardinia, the sight of this beautiful beach instantly calmed my central nervous system. It was just so peaceful. I sent a video of it to my Nan who, at 82, declared that it looked so beautiful that she'd be prepared to "Just lay down there and die" (she was being flippant, but you get the gist of how special this place is!).
With only a handful of restaurants and one mini (and I mean mini) shop, Torre de Bari is the perfect spot for relaxation and rejuvenation. Spend your time here lounging on the long stretch of beach, which is divided into two sections by the tower. One side offers a family-friendly atmosphere, while the other is popular with those seeking a quieter, more secluded vibe (which is where I spent my days!). The clear waters on either side are perfect for swimming or snorkelling.
Sunrise
Since this area faces east, it’s worth setting an early wake-up alarm to experience the dramatic sunrises that paint the sky in hues of orange.
Van Life
I stayed at Sosta Camping Torre di Bari, a well-equipped campsite focused on sustainability and eco-friendliness. The owners are super-friendly, plus it's only 200 meters from the beach. They accept the ASCI card in low season.
Bike Hire
If you want to explore the local area, I recommend hiring a bike from the Domus de Janas Beach Resort.
Unless you're an experienced mountain cyclist, be cautious of my mistake - choosing a standard bike! You won't get far on the surrounding roads since they are extremely hilly. The second time around, I rented an e-bike, and it was a far more enjoyable experience! I was able to cycle significantly further and explore the surrounding villages and towns thanks to the e-bike's assistance over the hills.
This circular cycling route from nearby Bari Sardo takes you through the hilly backroads of the area and alongside paradise beaches with powder white sand. 👇
Day 5: Day trip to Arbatax - More Cycling Adventures
The impressive rock formations of the Rocce Rosse
For a longer cycling adventure, leave your van at the campsite and cycle up to Arbatax, a village nestled on the rugged coastline of Cape Bellavista. This picturesque spot sits atop a strip of porphyry rock, with striking geological formations that rise dramatically from the sea. Be sure to visit the Rocce Rosse (Red Rocks) for the stunning panoramic view across the sea.
Pit stop
Cycle up to Sunset Lounge Bar for a cold beer and tasty snacks with views over the bay, before heading back to the van.
This is the cycling route for your day trip 👇
Day 6-8 Cagliari – Big City Energy, Sardinian Style
After all that beach, it's time for some city action! Hit the road for a two-hour drive south to Cagliari, Sardinia’s vibrant capital.
The best way to experience this city is on foot - to get to the best parts around the city’s historic centre, Castello, you'll need to be prepared for some hill climbs! But you'll be rewarded with colourful houses set around narrow, winding streets, and impressive landmarks like the Cathedral of Santa Maria and the Bastion of Saint Remy. There are impressive views across the city from the Piazza Aquilino Cannas.
Cagliari also boasts a lively nightlife. You can enjoy hopping between aperitivo bars, live music clubs, and delicious restaurants. I highly recommend trying the local speciality, culurgiones - Sardinian dumplings filled with potatoes, cheese, and mint.
Contrast of old and new buildings around the Castello
Van Life
It's best to park your van on the outskirts of the city, as squeezing into a parking spot in the city centre can be quite a challenge. This paid motorhome parking area is just a 25-minute walk into the centre - services are very basic, but it's secure so you'll have peace of mind knowing the van is safe while exploring the city on foot.
City Survival Tip
Wear comfy shoes. Those cobblestones weren’t made for flip-flops.
Day 9-10: Solanas – The Beach You’ve Been Dreaming Of
Enough of the city buzz - it’s time to chase that beach life again. Solanas, with its golden sands and clear waters, is your paradise for the next couple of days. This area is less crowded compared to other parts of the island, making it an idyllic beach stay. It's around a 1-hour drive from Cagliari.
Here you can park your van right by the beach, lay down a towel, and do absolutely nothing apart from swimming, snorkelling, or just people-watching. For feasting, there's a couple of beach bars and a small supermarket nearby but it's better to get stocked up with food and water before you arrive.
Van Life
This spot is right on the beach! Look for the dirt parking area at the end instead of the official parking spots. You’ll settle behind the sand dune, just a hop, skip, and jump away from the beautiful beach!
More sunsets...
Although located on the eastern side of Sardinia, the bay of Solanas faces south-west and you know what that means. Sunsets! I'm a sucker for an amazing sunset and this location does not disappoint. Aim to get a front-row parking spot directly onto the beach - you’ll be rewarded with spectacular sunsets from the comfort of your van.
Day 11-13: Bosa – Where Colorful Streets Meet Wine Therapy
Now it’s time to start the journey northwards to the ferry ports. Taking the western route via the easy E25 motorway, be sure to stop at the photogenic town of Bosa for a couple of days. It's around a 2.5-hour drive from Solanas.
This is one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited.
Lining the Temo River are the town’s many colourful houses, climbing row by row through narrow, cobbled streets. You can spend hours wandering these vibrant streets and soaking in the beauty. Many of the houses are adorned with unique artwork created by the residents.
Spend an afternoon strolling these streets of colour in Bosa 🎨
For history lovers, the medieval castle ruins of Malaspina overlooks the town. It's well worth the steep climb to the top for the panoramic views of the town and the river, as it meanders out towards the sea.
If you have time, also visit the charming Bosa Marina. From here you can hike into the surrounding areas. Check out the hike below where you'll discover a beautiful hidden bay with incredible rock formations. 👇
Van Life
There's free parking along the river which is ideal for exploring the town for a couple of days.
Feasting
Bosa is a great place for indulging. There's plenty of cafes and restaurants around the town serving traditional Sardinian cuisine. Don’t miss the chance to try some of the local Malvasia wine!
Day 14: Sardinian Farewell – One Last Sunrise
Wake up early and sip your coffee while enjoying the sunrise. Take a final leisurely drive to your ferry port and reflect on your epic road trip, the stunning scenery, and surviving some tricky mountain roads! Sardinia has officially stolen your heart (and maybe a few gigabytes of storage with all those photos!)
Van Life
If you're departing from Porto Torres, this free motorhome parking spot is an ideal place to park up pre-departure, even the night before if you have an early morning ferry.
Wanting More? Check out Laconi for Forest Trails and Fresh Mountain Air
If you have extra time, or want to mix up the itinerary a bit, I recommend a day trip to the hidden gem of Laconi. Located in the heart of Sardinia, it requires some mountain driving to access, but the views along the way are worth the effort!
I stumbled upon this location by accident. I'd taken a detour into the mountain range with the intention to hike to the island's highest peak, Punta La Mamora (1,834m). Upon arrival at the hike starting point, the weather turned. A chilly wind picked up, dark clouds rolled in and heavy rain was forecast. Given the conditions, I decided to prioritise safety and warmth and chose to drive on. This decision led me to discover Laconi.
Upon arriving in the village, I was pleased with my Plan B. Laconi is a small, picturesque village surrounded by lush forests and rugged hills. It's less touristy, making it a great place to experience the island’s rural charm.
The main attraction in Laconi is the beautiful Parco di Aymerich, a sprawling park filled with mature forests and stunning waterfalls adorned with ferns and moss. If you climb along the ridges of the park, you'll reach a clearing that offers magnificent views of the town, framed by mountain ranges and the picturesque Sardinian countryside.
Enjoy the tranquility of Parco di Aymerich
For history lovers, the park is also home to the ruins of the medieval Castello di Laconi.
Van Life
I parked my van at a free service area. It was peaceful overnight, and I awoke to the chime of the church bell. It’s much colder in the mountains than in the coastal areas of the island, so make sure to bring some extra layers to wear.
Conclusion
After touring around this island in my van, I can safely say it's a destination well worth visiting with your camper or motorhome. Sure there's some challenges to van life on this island. But that's more than compensated by the island’s diverse landscapes, beautiful scenery and charming towns. Plus you'll have the freedom to take in the island at your own pace, discovering hidden gems along the way.
I highly recommend adding this island to your bucket list—it’s the perfect place to hit the road, relax, and let the adventure unfold.
Ready to start planning your Sardinia adventure?
Check out my honest guide to Van Life in Sardinia, which covers all the practicalities of touring this beautiful island in a van. You'll find insights into the challenges to watch out for and helpful hacks.
This guide is based on my first-hand experience travelling across the island in my 6.4m campervan and the lessons I learned along the way! Check it out below! 👇
Georgina
Thanks for reading! Leave a comment below with any feedback, questions or your own recommendations about Sardinia, I'd love to hear from you 😄
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