The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
Sardinia offers stunning landscapes, azure waters, and a vibrant culture, making it an enticing destination for campervan travel. Any van lifer knows that this form of travel requires being comfortable with spontaneity and relying on instinct and problem-solving skills. Sardinia certainly puts that to the test! You can find yourself parked by a picturesque mountain view one day, only to wake up surrounded by goats. Yes, it can get quirky.
Exploring this Mediterranean paradise offers a unique mix of adventure, beauty, and unexpected challenges that are unlikely to be found anywhere else in Europe.
Based on my own van life experience of touring Sardinia, here's my brutally honest guide, "The Good, The Bad and The Ugly" of the island. This will equip you with the crucial insights you need before you start your van life adventure on this jewel in the Med!
The Good
Breathtaking views, diverse landscapes, picturesque villages, and pristine beaches - oh, and campsites!
Breathtaking Beaches and Beautiful Towns
Sardinia is famous for its pristine coastline with over 1,800 km of stunning beaches. Whether you choose to park your motorhome near the hidden gem of Solanas or book a pitch at a beachfront campsite on the beautiful Torre de Bari, you'll be captivated by the island's breathtaking beaches.
Beyond the beaches, Sardinia’s charming towns add another layer to the experience. Bosa, with its colourful houses and streets filled with quirky artwork, is a beautiful sight and one of the most picturesque spots on the island. Whether you're soaking up the sun or strolling through historic streets, Sardinia delivers endless beauty.
For more guidance on must-see destinations in Sardinia, including where to park your camper or motorhome, then check out my 2-week itinerary👇
Georgina
All Year-Round Sunshine
One delight of campervan travel in Sardinia is the all-year-round warm weather and sunshine. Of course, it can get hot in July and August, but that heat is often tempered by a cooling sea breeze, allowing for enjoyable days spent exploring without the sweltering heat.
When it arrives, winter is gentle, with temperatures reaching up to 15°C, making it a great option for off-season travel.
The best times to visit in a camper or motorhome are May-June and September-October when temperatures hover around 26°C. It's still warm enough for beach days and sea swimming, one of the best activities in Sardinia!
Diverse Landscapes
Sardinia is a very mountainous island, with only 18.5% of its area classified as flat. In addition to sandy beaches, you'll encounter rugged mountain ranges and rolling hills. Whether you park on secluded beaches or pitch in the heights of the mountain ranges, Sardinia offers a varied and diverse landscape.
Exploring the island’s natural parks, such as Asinara National Park, allows you to encounter unique wildlife and breathtaking scenery. Imagine hiking along scenic trails while being accompanied by wild goats and cows!
Accessible Campervan-Friendly Facilities
Sardinia is a great destination for campervan travellers, offering a variety of facilities suitable for all sizes of motorhomes. While the selection of camping options is not overwhelming, the island provides dedicated camping areas with drinking water, electricity, and waste disposal services. These sites are conveniently located near beaches and scenic viewpoints, making them perfect for spontaneous stops.
Additionally, if you travel during the low season, many campsites accept the ASCI card for discounted pitch rates.
The Bad
It can't all be good! Prepare yourself for some challenges when visiting with a campervan
Mosquitos Are Savage
You'll quickly learn that Sardinia's mosquitoes are relentless. As soon as the sun dips below the horizon, these little pests swarm in droves. As someone who enjoys visiting warm and humid climates, particularly Southeast Asia, I'm no stranger to mosquito bites. However, I had quite a bad reaction to the mosquitoes in Sardinia - nothing dangerous, just unpleasant.
Be sure to cover yourself well with clothing or repellent when venturing out in the evening. Sardinian mozzies particularly like hanging out in the shade of the pine trees which line the beachfront. And, also ensure your van's windows have quality mosquito nets so you can sleep soundly at night without being feasted upon!
Limited Wild Camping Opportunities
Finding the perfect spot to park your van for the night can be a tricky task. While wild camping is not officially permitted in Sardinia, sleeping in your motorhome overnight is generally tolerated in the shoulder and low seasons. However, there are exceptions where "No Camping" signs are posted, often at prime spots.
Whether you’ll get fined for staying in these areas depends on the location, the time of year, and whether the local police can be bothered that day to enforce the rules. So, wild camping can be a bit of a gamble.
High Costs During Peak Season
Sardinia’s popularity peaks in the summer months, causing prices to rise sharply. You can expect to pay between €30-€50 per night for a campsite during this period, decreasing to around €25 during the shoulder season and €20 in the low season.
Moreover, everything else on the island is often more expensive than in mainland Europe - whether it’s gas, food, or dining out - making Sardinia a costly destination. Planning your trip during the shoulder or low season can help mitigate these expenses.
Difficulty Navigating
Navigating Sardinia can be an adventure of its own. While the roads can be stunning, finding your way around can present some challenges.
First of all, Google Maps cannot be fully trusted. On a few occasions, it tried to reroute me away from a highway "road closure" onto a detour through rural narrow backroads. Instinct, for some reason, told me not to trust this - and indeed there was no "road closure." Instead, it was just a small diversion around a highway junction.
Unfortunately, my intuition failed me when I ended up on a dirt road clinging to the side of a mountain, which progressively deteriorated into gravel and rocks. I had to limp along this unpleasant drive for several kilometres. I can tell you, that drive aged me about ten years. Google Maps did not warn me of what lay ahead, nor was there any signage indicating that the smooth road I was following would turn into a treacherous path.
Many routes, particularly those running east-west, require traversing steep mountain ranges. These narrow roads barely accommodate one vehicle, let alone a campervan! Expect to navigate winding paths with precarious drops and hairpin turns! While it can be exhilarating, with outstanding views along the way, it also demands vigilance and skill.
To add to the stress, the speed limits on these roads are completely ignored by the locals! While you're trundling along carefully, be prepared for a lot of speeding overtaking cars and locals in worn-out Fiat Pandas making risky lane changes on curves.
The Ugly
Sardinia is beautiful...but...there can be poor infrastructure and a lack of maintenance in places that will impact your journey
Lack of Campervan Services
Outside of campsites and 'area sostas' it can be challenging to find places to refill drinking water and dispose of wastewater. When touring the island, it’s essential to do your homework to check what services are available in advance, ensuring you are well prepared. Unlike in France and Spain, free sites and service areas are not common in Sardinia. Study Park4Night carefully and read reviews to make sure any service provision is still actually accessible and working!
What a Load of Rubbish!
And then there's the trash. Despite its beauty, Sardinia is plagued by litter, primarily along the highways. This is due to the lack of trash cans. Crazy right? In many places where you would expect bins - such as towns, outside supermarkets, and at beaches - there's a distinct lack of rubbish bins.
At one point during my trip, I found myself carting around two 50-litre bags of rubbish in the van for four days because I didn't come across a single bin! The lesson learned here? If you see a bin, use it, no matter how much trash you have at the time. Dispose of as much as you can when you can, because you may not see a bin again for quite a while.
Sketchy Roads
And we're back to the roads again! So in addition to presenting navigation challenges, the roads are also in poor condition. There's no toll roads or motorways in Sardinia; however, there is a two-lane highway (E25) that runs north-south on the western side of the island. The rest of the roads are typically single-lane 'SS' (superstrade) and 'SP' (strade provinciali) roads.
These roads are not always well-maintained and you can hit patches of very uneven paving, including potholes, even on roads with 120 km/h limits. If you see a sudden drop in speed limit to 50 km/h with a 'bump ahead' warning sign, slow down and prepare yourself for some sizeable potholes ahead.
Generally, SS roads are in better condition than SP roads, so it's wise to plan your journey accordingly. Most of the time, opting for a quick shortcut via an SP road isn’t worth the bumps and stress.
Ok, we're done...
Time to wrap things up 😄 It's fair to say that van life in Sardinia offers a unique blend of adventure and challenge. You’ll find stunning landscapes and secluded beaches that make every stop and destination worthwhile.
Yet, it’s not all smooth sailing. Finding suitable spots to camp can sometimes feel like a treasure hunt. And there will be days when you'll need to navigate narrow, winding roads that test your driving skills.
But with proper planning and a sense of humour, you can navigate both the beauty and the quirks of campervan travel in Sardinia. One thing's for sure, it'll provide you with lasting memories.
Need inspiration on where to visit in Sardinia?
Then check out my 2-week itinerary 👇 From stunning hikes to serene beaches, uncover the island's best-kept secrets and enjoy the freedom of van life!
Georgina
Thanks for reading!
Leave a comment below with any questions or let me know about your Sardinian experience, I'd love to hear from you 😄
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